Friday, February 7, 2020

Nova Scotia or bust (Summer 1971)





Summer, 1971


To this day I do not know whose idea is was to go to Nova Scotia.
But Jimmy during those years was willing to travel almost anywhere as long as it involved someone else’s car and someone else paying for the gas.
Frank already owned a 1966 beige Dodge Dart, which had been worn out by its previous owner.
To help defray costs, Jimmy hoodwinked Bob Warren into going. But all three refused to let Alf make the trip, convinced all he would do it get drunk and start fights – possibly evoking a war between Canada and the United States.
Alf was among the first of the Garley Gang to own a car. In fact, Jimmy met Alf when Alf picked him up hitch hiking in Little Falls a few years earlier and continued to exploit Alf for rides and would have voted to include Alf had Frank’s car flaked out.
Jimmy, however, did feel some remorse about rejecting Alf, and made a point of mailing him an empty corn flakes box from their breakfast table in Nova Scotia as a souvenir.
Over the protests of his two companions, Frank insisted on taking the land route north with one relatively short ferry ride at the end.
“He kept telling us he wanted to see the trees,” Jimmy recalled, bringing along a portable cassette recorder to better document the journey.
At intervals, Jimmy stuck a microphone in people’s faces and asked them their thoughts about the trip so far.
Jimmy cautioned Frank not to pick up any hitch hikers along the way.
“I was afraid we would pick up a draft dodger and get ourselves busted for helping him,” Jimmy explained.
Jimmy was also concerned about the condition of Frank’s car, knowing that the weather was fickle and repair stations remote the further north they went. Even a flat tire in the wrong place could strand them.
“I didn’t want to end up in the middle of nowhere with those two,” he said long after a later trip stranded him with Ginger in Nebraska. “Neither one of those two had much stamina. If we had to hike for any distance they would likely wither and die.”
He also didn’t trust their common sense, thinking as city boys they would panic if confronted by a wolf, mountain lion or bear.
None had brought more than a pocketknife, let alone a weapon.
Confirming his worst fears, the car began to fall apart as they drove.  Jimmy tried to roll down the window and the knob came off in his hand. When he tried to get into the glove compartment, it resisted, and then sprung open dumping the contents into his lap, then refused to close regardless of the number of times he tried to slam it shut, and when it finally did, it was spring open again whenever the car hit a bump.
Well after they finally crossed the border into Canada, Frank stopped to pick up a couple of hitchhikers. Because the car was a two door, these people have to climb into the back forcing Jimmy to fold the seat forward. When they were seated, he returned the seat back to its proper position, sat down and had the back of the seat collapsed into their laps so that he was looking up at them. He eventually managed to wedge something into the mechanism to keep it in place, but each bump then caused the seat to fall back just as the glove compartment popped open  -- a duality he managed to avoid later by sitting on the edge of the seat while holding closed the glove compartment with his knees.
As testimony to advanced planning, none of the three had thought to make motel reservations and so drove until they saw a “vacancy” sign and then stopped. Because finances were tight – needing to cover the cost of gas, oil, food and cigarettes – the motel had to be in expensive.
Jimmy had lot of complaints.
“Nobody thought to bring an alarm clock,” he said. “We relied on the clock radio. When it went off one of them slapped the snooze button or slept right through it even though we knew we had to check out early.”
This generally wasn’t the issue Jimmy made it out to be since he was up at the crack of dawn with worry.
Somewhere along the road, he did manage to buy a clock.
“I only found out the alarm didn’t work at the next motel when it was too late to go back to where we bought it,” he said. “So, I had to go and shake them awake, first one, then the other. I would shake Frank until he said he was awake, then I went over to Bob. By the time I got Bob up, I could hear Frank snoring.”
Sleeping arrangements also posed a problem. The rooms they rented came with two beds. While both were wide enough to accommodate two people, Jimmy soon realized he could sleep with neither of the other two. He tried with Frank the first night and Frank thrashed around so much Jimmy woke up with black and blue marks in the morning. He tried sleeping with Bob only to wake with Bob’s arms and legs wrapped around him as if in a python’s death grip.
On the third night, he slept on the floor, and woke up so stiff he could barely stand the ride the next day. On the fourth night, he demanded the other two share a bed while he slept in the second only to wake in the middle of the night to a ruckus as one of the sleeping figures thrashed as the other figure attempted to clutch, both howling like fighting cats.
Jimmy then accepted his fate to sleep on the floor for the rest of the trip.
Perhaps the most memorable motel moment came when they finally arrived at Inverness where the female motel clerk took a liking to Frank, and both took off with the car to go to a rock and roll club on Prince Edward Island, leaving Jimmy and Bob standing on the gravel driveway with their bags.
“He didn’t even tell us where he was going or if he would ever come back,” Jimmy recalled. “We didn’t know what we would do if he didn’t.”
Adding insult to injury, Jimmy soon discovered the TV didn’t work.
Nova Scotia got its name because it resembled Scotland. Frank and Jimmy always craved to visit England and Ireland. Although born in Paterson and lived most of his life in West Paterson, Jimmy actually lived in England briefly before he turned five and he retained a hazy memory of the experience.
Jimmy was every bit a tourist during this trip, collecting brochures at every stop, and would lay them out on the bed to map out where they would go and what they would see. He created a schedule that stuffed in as much as they could into each day and hoped to avoid aimless wandering.
While the trio did seek out some local points of interest, browsed some local gift shops and took photographs at local monuments, much of their adventure involved pointing to a spot on the map and going to see what was there. If some odd named popped up, Jimmy insisted they go there, often going off the beaten path to places tourists rarely went.
On one particular jaunt to the high lands, Jimmy got worried because Frank had forgotten to fill the gas tank and the driving had taken them up to a particularly remote region with few houses and – as far as they could tell – no gas stations. They wandered around, climbing higher and higher as the road narrowed and one side suddenly dropped sharply, leaving them no room to turn around.
“The tops of the pine trees were eye level with us,” Jimmy said. “The ruts were so deep they alone kept us from slipping off the side of the road.”
Bob yelped each time the car veered, fully believing they were going to go over the side.
Jimmy kept telling Bob to shut up. Frank – who was driving – screamed at them both, claiming they were making him nervous and that he WOULD fall off if they didn’t stop.
All things were at full volume when they finally reached the top where Frank pulled over, turned off the engine and then in a fit of frustration thrust the keys out the window.
For years, Jimmy was convinced that Frank meant for those keys to go over the edge of the mountain, stranding them in that remote place. As it was, they had come upon one of the oddest aspects of the local landscape, a fenced in field just wide enough to accommodate a patch of grass and a cow.
The keys had landed somewhere in the grass. Jimmy and Bob went out to search for them, while Frank sat on the hood of the car, hitting a tiny gong with a tiny hammer he had purchased at a local gift shop.
When Jimmy finally recovered the keys, he ordered Frank to turn the car around. They slipped their way down the muddy road scared to death that they would slip off the side at any moment.
The trip bound these three together.
As they wandered this world of mostly dirt roads, countless rivers and an occasional ruin, something changed in the three of them, some secret Frank could not later explain, this experience remembered throughout the rest of their lives as something special.
They seemed to love the misty world of Inverness especially, but the trip to a local racetrack remained a point of contention long after they returned home.
Jimmy, who viewed himself as an intelligent gambler, insisted on dragging the other two to the track where with all the appropriate racing forms he bet on what he assumed would be the logical winner.
Frank with no calculation picked the horse whose name he liked – a name since forgotten but at the time had some symbolic importance. Then a frustrated Jimmy watched as Frank’s horse came from behind to win.
Jimmy refused to let either of the other two talk about it for the rest of the trip, and still was bitter about it many, many years later.











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